Those flimsy tubs of mixed fruit peel don't need to be condemned to an eternity in the shadowy depths of the kitchen cupboard. Perhaps it's not the most exciting ingredient, but with a little care peel canreally lift a dish. Here are a couple ofrecipes that let it shine:
Cranberry, orange and dark chocolate florentines
These jewelled treats are a long way from the sea of beige that dominates our British biscuit tins. Laden with toasted nuts, cranberries and citrus peel, they pack all that is festive into one lace-edged, chewy mouthful. Feel free to substitute the cranberries for dried cherries, but don't swap in just any old fruit: to offset the sweetness ofthe biscuit you need some sourness that the likes of currants and raisins can't provide. And don't even think about not bothering to toast the almonds – the bland, pallid almond flakes really do need this dose of heat to unlock their flavour.
Makes 16
40g flaked almonds
80g unsalted butter
60g light brown soft sugar
Zest of 2 oranges
40g plain flour
A large a pinch of salt
100g dried cranberries
50g mixed peel
200g dark chocolate
1 Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4. Toast the almonds on a baking tray for about 10 minutes, or until theyhave turned golden.
2 While the flaked almonds are being toasted, melt the butter over a low heat. Add the sugar and orange zest, stirring to combine. Remove the almonds to cool, but leave the oven on.
4 In a bowl, mix the flour, salt, cranberries, peel and almonds, tossing to coat the fruit with flour. Add this to the butter mixture and combine.
5 Line a large baking tray with parchment. Using two teaspoons, heap small mounds of the mixture onto the sheet and flatten each one a little. Space them well apart, as they'll spread in the oven. You'll be able to make about 16 florentines with this recipe, so I'd recommend doing them in about three batches – the mixture won't suffer for waiting around.
6 Cook each batch for 10-12 minutes, oruntil the edges of each florentine arelacy and golden brown. Let them cool for 5 minutes on the tray, gently pushing them into a more circular shape, then slide on to a cooling rack. They'll seem fragile, but as they cool the edges will become crispy while the centre remains gloriously chewy.
7 Break the chocolate into pieces and heat in short bursts in the microwave until melted. Brush the underneath of the biscuits liberally with the chocolate and leave to set. You can always artistically drizzle any leftover chocolate on top, too, if you want.
Oliebollen
These little Dutch doughnuts are traditionally new year's eve fodder, butI see no harm in bringing the date forward. I make these far smaller than a conventional doughnut, which not only makes them easier to cook, but also eases the guilt of having eaten one, or two, or a bowlful.
Makes around 14 doughnuts
350g flour
1 x 7g sachet instant dry yeast
5g salt
140g caster sugar
350ml milk
Zest 1 lemon
100g currants
1 apple, peeled and cored
100g mixed peel
2 litres vegetable oil
1 Combine the flour, yeast, salt and 40g of the sugar. Heat the milk until tepid, then stir in the lemon zest. Add this to the flour mixture and stir to combine. Let the dough sit for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, chop the apple into small cubes (maximum about 6mm across).
3 Now's the time to feel smug if you have an electric mixer with dough hook attachments; roll your sleeves upif not. This dough needs to be vigorously beaten in the bowl in order to increase its elasticity, which will help strengthen the dough's structure and give a lighter texture. If kneading by hand, cradle the bowl firmly in one arm, while using your other hand to mix the dough. About 10 minutes of mixing is ideal, but as long as you manage at least 5 minutes you'll be fine.
4 Incorporate the fruit and peel, then let the dough rise at room temperature for about an hour, at which point, start heating the oil in a large saucepan. Theoil needs to reach 180C/350F. If you have a deep-fat fryer – perfect. Otherwise, I strongly recommend buying a sugar thermometer, which will let you gauge the heat. Never leavethe hot oil unattended.
5 Using two tablespoons, scoop small balls of the batter into the oil, three or four at a time. Fry for 1½-2 minutes on each side and carefully remove using a slotted spoon. Roll each doughnut in the remaining caster sugar. Repeat in batches until done. I did entertain the idea of eating these, still warm, with some lemon gelato. It might be an indulgence too far, but I'll leave you to make up your own mind on that count.
